The journey to Fells Point: I left the Oakland (California) Airport at 9:35 a.m. on Tuesday, Oct. 7. There were stops in Salt Lake and St. Louis, and I had to change planes in Cleveland (Southwest Airlines... grumble, grumble, mumble...) I finally arrived at BWI at 8:45 p.m. Eastern time.
Detective Sergeant Steve Lehmann of the Baltimore Homicide Unit met me at the arrival gate. 'Turns out he had Tuesday and Wednesday off that week from the midnight shift. I gave him a little law enforcement-related gift from the San Francisco Bay Area... a coffee cup with "Alcatraz Federal Prison -- WARDEN" printed on it. Sarge then picked up my carry-on and we headed off toward the BWI parking garage (Sarge worried a bit about not being able to find his car in the parking maze, but I had complete confidence in his detective abilities...)
I had crammed just about everything for my trip into one carry-on suitcase and my daypack. The suitcase ended up weighing about 35 lbs. I asked Sarge if maybe he was wondering if I had packed bowling balls for the trip. He agreed the bag was a *tad* heavy... :-> ...
The weather was very warm and humid even at 10 p.m. As we drove into Baltimore, Sarge pointed out the Inner Harbor area. Camden Yards was brightly lit in preparation for the Orioles/Indians baseball games the following evenings. I also saw the Aquarium building, Columbus Center, and the Maryland Science Center... and off in the distance, the neon sign for the Domino Sugar factory!
As we arrived in Fells Point Sarge showed me the H:LotS "police station" on Thames Street, and the Waterfront bar directly across. From Thames we turned onto Fell and drove down to the end of the street. Henderson's Inn at the Wharf is, well,... at a wharf. It's right at the water's edge. The brick building is a former Baltimore & Ohio Railroad tobacco warehouse (dating back to the 1890's) that was converted into apartments -- and 38 "bed and breakfast" rooms on the first floor. My room, pleasantly furnished and very quiet, had a view of the garden in the interior courtyard.
But when I checked in, I discovered that Henderson's wanted payment up front for my stay (I was expecting I'd settle up when I checked out, but I was wrong on that one!) So Sarge had to wait as I wrote out *eight* traveler's checks... which couldn't simply be made out to "Henderson's," the desk clerk informed me, but had to be inscribed "Henderson's Inn at the Wharf." Eight times. Sarge heckled me a bit later saying he was walking around (while I was embroiled in the checking-in process), not looking the place over, but scouting for a bar! His search was in vain. Too many bars in Fells Point already to warrant one on the Henderson's premises, too, I guess. (I tried to make up for his discomfort a bit later at John Stevens, Ltd... :-> ...)
After I dropped off the bowling balls... er, ... luggage in my room, Sarge and I headed over to the *real* Baltimore Police HQ on Fayette Street (601 E. Fayette). We went up to the Homicide Unit (on one of the newer, faster elevators... this thanks in no small part to the recent article in the Sun, Sarge believed...) In the Homicide offices Sarge introduced me to several of the detectives on the evening shift. They seemed surprised at first, but then pleased that I was visiting there. Then we went over to Sarge's office. He gave me a color 8X10 of the *real* Homicide "board" (taken before they moved the information onto computers), and a detective's notebook. Sarge explained that the Unit isn't set up the same as the show, that the sergeants actually head up the squads (whereas a lieutenant supervises each group of detectives in the show). I told him his office didn't even seem as nice as Gee's...
In fact, the entire Unit seemed a jumble of desks, file cabinets and mismatched office furniture arranged in close quarters. The rooms have a definite institutional feel, but are punctuated here and there with bits of humor and personal expressions. I was somewhat downcast to see people who do such important work settled in rather shabby surroundings. I'm aware of much more frivolous enterprises carried on in what would be relative extravagance. Sarge and one of the detectives joked absurdly about the office "intercom," which basically consists of hammering a fist on the wall, or yelling over the tops of cubicles!
We walked by the "aquarium," so named, said Sarge, because when people pace around inside the glassed area they resemble fish swimming back and forth in a tank. The interrogation rooms (an I.R. is not called a "box" like in the show) are much smaller than the one depicted in H:LotS (but it would be difficult to contain more than two people, or move around or film in a room the size of one of the *real* interrogation rooms...)
We went over to the Cold Case Squad to take a look at Sgt. Roger Nolan's office. His office door was open, but Nolan wasn't about. I guess he has a day job now :-) . We didn't go down to Evidence Control, but I asked about Gary D'Addario. Apparently still bearing up under BPD politics, D'Addario was put in charge of the basement depository; transferred there -- he didn't ask for the assignment. In an attempt to reduce supervisory layers, it seems the Department is finding ways to "encourage" officers who hold the rank of captain to retire.
Down in the main lobby Sarge showed me some historical exhibits of the BPD. There was also a memorial with all the names of police officers killed in the line of duty. David Simon mentioned in his book, I think, one officer who died in a drug arrest gone bad. I scanned the list for something that rang a bell, but I just couldn't remember the name.
Sarge said the Evidence Lab was closed, else he would have taken me by there, too. But he wasn't actually sure if they would have let us in anyway, even if we were there during operating hours. Outside the HQ building, Sarge pointed out the courthouses. City Hall is also in the area, at 100 N. Holliday St. Built shortly after the Civil War, the building features a 100-foot rotunda capped by a rare segmented dome. It was quite impressive looking, all lit up like it was that night.
A Greek restaurant across the street from BPD is a favorite lunch spot. Sarge said to ask for a #3, I think. I can't remember the name of the restaurant now (Neither can I remember what a #3 actually consists of... Help, Sarge!...)
We drove by the Penn Street Morgue (uh, I mean "The Medical Examiner's Office"...) Sarge said "Homicide" used to film the autopsy scenes there, but working out the schedule to use the facilities just got too complicated. So the show created its own "morgue" just around the corner from the "police station" on Thames Street. A crew member related the same chain of events to me when I visited the "morgue" set a couple of days later.
Back in the car, we drove around several of the area neighborhoods. Sarge showed me several locations of murders that the Unit had worked on, or was currently working on. He pointed out one particular street corner as the one on which David Simon's new book is based. Sure enough, the place looked a bit overly busy for a late Tuesday night. We also took a trip down "The Block." Some of these areas looked quite rough, but Sarge said we wouldn't even *chance* a venture into some of the REALLY hardcore crime neighborhoods around the city.
Sarge grew up in South Baltimore, so we took a drive over there. It still looks like a solid community, though some of it has gone the way of "progress" since Sarge's day. In Pigtown, Sarge explained the origin of the name from the freight yards where livestock used to be unloaded.
Heading back toward Fells Point we went past Fort McHenry, the B&O Railroad Museum, the new (under construction) Ravens football stadium, the Convention Center, and the Bromo Seltzer Tower. The new Holocaust Memorial was fenced off. Sarge said it was being prepared for a building to be built around it. Apparently the local homeless folks had found it a bit too convenient for shelter. Driving through Little Italy I saw lots of restaurants. Some of the neighborhood residents were sitting out on their front steps, even at the late hour.
It was close to midnight, and definitely time to hit a pub. Although Sarge deems the Fells bars a bit too "Yup," he kindly agreed to accompany me to John Stevens, Ltd. at the corner of Fell and Thames. First up I ordered a Wild Goose Porter on tap. Sarge stuck to Rolling Rock in a bottle. Thanks to Southwest, I'd only had squirrel food (peanuts) to eat most the day. So I asked the bartender for the bar menu. She recommended the boiled shrimp, and it was delicious. I offered some to Sarge, but he declined. I had no trouble finishing the plate by myself, it was so good! I accompanied it with some very tasty Oxford Raspberry Wheat in a bottle.
Now, you-all being fans of a TV show based in "The City that Bleeds," I'm sure you are well aware that Baltimore can be a dangerous place. And I'm here to tell you... firsthand... don't EVER get Old Bay seasoning in a paper cut! You *cannot* wash the stuff away. My right index finger smarted for two days afterward...
John Stevens is a comfortable little place, and it was good to escape for a while from the warm night air. Sarge and I talked about infamous homicide cases (those of Baltimore, and other places as well...), and the real Homicide Unit, the real detectives, and Simon's book. We discussed the "Homicide" show, the characters, actors, and authenticity (Sarge said the real detectives would never yell and get in a suspect's face, or push them up against a wall in the "box." It makes for good TV drama, tho, I guess...)
Well, I kept Sarge out late on his day off. We left John Stevens and he dropped me back by Henderson's about 1:30 a.m. I think (But hey... it was still only about 10:30 p.m. California time! I would pay for the jet lag by not being able to drag myself outta bed until just before noon later that day...) I really think Sergeant Lehmann is a great guy for taking time on his day off to show me BPD and a lot of the city. Being it was my first visit to Bawlamer and I didn't really know anybody there, it really helped make my stay more fun and interesting!
The Daily Grind has gotta be a godsend for anybody on West Coast time in Fells Point...
It was another day of unseasonably warm and humid weather, and the doors of the Daily Grind were wide open. The cafe is long and narrow with wooden tables in the front, the counter in back. At one-thirty in the afternoon I was the only customer. Two young guys behind the counter said "hi" as I walked in. George is tall and clean-cut like a college sports hero. Steve is shorter, tattooed, and wears his long hair pulled back in a ponytail under a baseball cap worn backwards. (Later on they joke about being "Mutt and Jeff"...) Steve whipped up an iced mocha for me while George put together a great-looking hummus sandwich (It ended up being a two-mocha sandwich!) Thankfully the jet lag started to dissipate a bit after I sat down with my sandwich and coffee.
I pulled out my Baltimore street map and wondered idly if any of my visits to the local hangouts would reward me with a sighting of an H:LotS cast member or two. I no sooner completed that thought when two more customers entered the D.G. ... two rather *familiar- looking* customers, as a matter of fact. 'Turned out to be Reed Diamond and Michelle Forbes. At the counter Michelle said a few words to Reed then turned around and walked back out.
Well, it must be true that the camera adds a few pounds. Either that or a business suit does. Reed is dressed casually in a t-shirt and black jeans, but what I notice most is he looks thinner than I would have expected.
OK... I *was* probably staring a bit. After Reed got his coffee, he went over to the cream and sugar table at the end of the counter which was just a few steps down and across from where I was sitting. As he got to the cream and sugar table he looked right at me, and after a second he said, "Hi." I just smiled and said "hi" back. After Reed adulterated his coffee he turned around again and I asked him if they were filming across the street that day. He said yeah, they were filming in the "squad room." I nodded and said, "Hmm! OK..." and couldn't think of another bloody thing to say; but he was probably heading back to work, anyway. He smiled and nodded in return as he walked out with his coffee.
I went up to the counter and talked with George as he fixed me another iced mocha (Reed must be acclimated to the Bawlamer weather... how he could drink hot coffee, I couldn't figure. And I found out later the squad room is NOT particularly air-conditioned...) Steve walked up and we chatted some about the show as a few other customers walked in and out. They told me a story about when Ned Beatty was on the show. Apparently Beatty was notorious for never leaving a tip for the java jocks when he visited the Daily Grind. Then one day not long before Beatty left the show for good, he finally put a couple bucks in the tip jar. When he crossed the street and returned to the set, his generous act was duly announced over the set intercoms!
Before I left I asked the guys to pose for a photo. Even though we were the only ones in the place again, Steve posed like he was wiping the counter and handing a cup of coffee to someone off camera... :-)
I crossed the street to walk up toward Broadway. A guy in a navy blue t-shirt with "Homicide" printed on it stood on the sidewalk in front of the garage of the "police station." I said "hi" as I approached and casually asked him if he was a member of the crew (he was). So I asked what was up with the filming on "Homicide." He seemed kinda grumbly at first (who wouldn't be in 95% humidity...), but said they were filming in the squad room, and would probably be working 'til around 9 p.m. that night. I talked with him a few minutes more, then continued on up Thames toward Broadway and parts unknown (well... for *me*...)
There were a few restaurants I wanted to scout out for dinner. I checked menus in a few windows and kept walking until I ended up in Canton looking for the Wild Mushroom on the corner of Montford and Fleet streets. The sign said they were closed between lunch and dinner, and it was about three o'clock in the afternoon by that time. But, not being easily put off by signs all the time, I tried the door anyway. Inside, one of the waiters was sitting at the bar eating lunch. I asked him if I could just take a look at a menu. He said, "Sure," and then asked if he could get me something to drink. I'd only walked blocks in the heat and humidity, so I was certainly glad he offered! I studied the menu and we talked for a while. He said he actually had a masters in public administration and he was working as a waiter while he looked for a job in D.C. I told him I was from the San Francisco area. He said I didn't look like a tourist (Maybe he figured only a fellow Baltimorean would be walking around on a hot, humid afternoon wearing jeans and a t-shirt, but I didn't pack any shorts or other attire suited for steamy climes. I had expected the weather to be mild... or even cold...) He said his girlfriend was from Marin County (north of San Francisco), California, but that she had moved to Baltimore and was currently experiencing culture shock... :-> Before I left he said to ask for a table in his section if I came back for dinner.
So after returning to Henderson's, resting up a bit, and taking a much appreciated shower, I started a trek back to the Wild Mushroom. As I came upon the "police station" (being that Henderson's is at the water's edge, I was rather forced to go in the opposite direction, which almost always took me past the police station...), I saw the same crew member I had met earlier standing on the sidewalk in front again. I greeted him again, and this time he seemed a little friendlier (but it had cooled off some by then, too... :-> ... ) He told me he was an equipment driver... one of the crew who pack up all the lights and camera and stuff onto a truck when the show goes on location, then packs it all back up again to come back. He said when they're filming on the sets, though, it often doesn't leave him with much to do. I told him I was visiting from the West Coast, and we joked a bit about "Nash Bridges." We then talked some about the cast members, and he said a number of the cast and crew lived right in Fells Point... Kyle Secor, for one. He also said Reed Diamond used to have a condo nearby, but -- somewhat insinuating about Reed's involvement with Michelle Forbes -- he said he didn't know if Reed still had the condo or not.
Later at the Wild Mushroom again I was treated to great service by my new waiter friend (and needless to say he earned an appropriate gratuity... :-) ...) I had the restaurant's delicious signature mushroom soup to start, and for an entree I ordered the mushroom, potato, and pumpkin seed enchiladas. 'Sounds like a strange combination maybe, but it was plenty tasty!
After dinner I stopped at John Stevens and had another raspberry wheat there for dessert. There were a lot of folks out for an evening stroll in Fells Point so I walked around a bit and looked in some of the shop windows and people-watched. Then I sat on the steps next to the Cat's Eye for a while and listened to some live music.
So,... I met some friendly Baltimoreans, sighted some H:LotS cast members, had some great food and drink... not bad for my first full day in Charm City!
Nine o'clock in the morning and it was already warm and muggy again in Charm City. I hadn't developed much of a plan for the day yet, except I knew I wanted to pig out at Vaccaro's for breakfast, and I wanted to visit the new Civil War Museum near there.
I walked down Thames Street, stopping to take a photo of The Horse You Came In On (brewpub) for a friend of mine who is a Martha Grimes fan (Apparently Grimes was so taken with the name of the pub that she wrote a mystery novel set in Baltimore, bringing her main character -- a Scotland Yard Detective -- over to the states from London.) I think I made a turn up Caroline Street. At any rate I passed the parking lot reserved for the "Homicide" cast and crew near Brown's Wharf Marina. Can't say I recognized anyone's car, though... :->
Vaccaro's Italian Pastry Shop is in Little Italy at 222 Albemarle Street. Here, too, (like the Daily Grind) when I walked in I was the only customer. There were two bakery cases with LOTS of cookies, so I would have been at a loss to identify which ones were Crosetti's favorite. I ordered a couple of pastries and a cappuccino and sat down to indulge. I'd only had a couple forkfuls when the pastry chef came walking out with another plate. "Here, I've got something even better than what you have there," he said. "The only thing is it's very fattening... but you don't look like that's any problem for you."
Flattery will get you somewhere!! In anorexic-prone California I'm probably considered -- while not particularly overweight or anything -- at least sufficiently fleshed out. But hey, in Little Italy they actually thought of me as *svelte*! I was likin' Bawlamer more and more! He handed me, gratis, a big square of tiramisu, and it was absolutely incredible melt-in-the-mouth total *yum*!
Well, after I finished the tiramisu I had the other items boxed up to go (After all,... I must watch my Little-Italy- svelte-like figure! I talked with the chef and the counter ladies for a while after that. The chef told me he and his wife had visited San Francisco and the Napa Valley a couple years back. He said he enjoyed the trip but he wished he hadn't rented a car in San Francisco. Well, if I had still been eating pastry I surely woulda choked on that one! San Francisco is just one big Fells Point as far as parking is concerned! I never drive there if I can possibly avoid it... I take transit. The chef told me his "horror story" about trying to find a place to park and having to subsequently pay twelve dollars for three hours in a lot three blocks from the restaurant where he and his wife wanted to dine. I told him that one of my brothers used to live in San Francisco, and whenever he was able to find a space in front of his walk-up he parked his car there and left it for weeks, while he *walked* around town or took the bus!
Bidding farewell to the friendly folks at Vaccaro's, I walked south a few blocks to President Street Station. The restored structure is publicized as the oldest large-city railroad station in the U.S. and now houses Baltimore's new Civil War Museum. Only the front of the station remains, the railroad sheds long ago destroyed by a heavy snowstorm. Inside, It's actually more of a panorama than a museum containing artifacts. The displays depict such events as the Pratt Street Riots of 1864 and the station's history as a corridor for slaves escaping north on the underground railroad. One particularly interesting artifact they *did* have (but even this was labeled as being on loan from the Maryland Historical Society...) was an 1860's Baltimore policeman's badge. It was made of real silver and was huge in comparison to what the police wear these days; it was an oval shape that looked to be about 3X5" or more in size!
Leaving the museum I walked to the nearby Pier Six Concert Pavilion and its corresponding water taxi dock. The water taxis stop every 15 to 20 minutes at the different docks around Federal Hill, the Inner Harbor, and communities along the waterfront all the way east to Canton. For only $3.50 you can buy a ticket good for travel all day. I took the water taxi back to the Broadway pier in Fells Point. On the way I enjoyed some great views of the Inner Harbor, and I was able to take a nice photograph of the "Homicide" police station from the water side as we approached the Broadway landing.
| Home | News | Show Info | Book Info | Fan Stuff | Site Info | Links |
| You are visitor number |
|